Cashmere title and fineness

Cashmere Guide

Fineness, counts, and secrets of the most precious yarn processing

Cashmere is one of the most prized and sought-after materials in the world of fashion and apparel. Its softness, lightness, and warmth make it a favorite among luxury consumers and artisans. However, many people do not fully understand the various gauges and counts of cashmere yarn, nor the twisting process that affects the final quality of the product. In this article, we will explore these aspects in detail.

Origin and Production of Cashmere

Cashmere is obtained from the underfur fibers of Cashmere goats, native to the Tibetan Plateau area, particularly in Mongolia, China, India and Nepal. Its production is laborious: to obtain a kilo of fiber, the furs of about 3-5 goats are needed, which are combed by hand during the spring, when their fur is particularly soft. This process requires a lot of attention and craftsmanship.

Cashmere Yarn Counts

In the world of cashmere, "count" refers to the finish and quality of the fibers being worked. Common counts include:

  • Cashmere 1-ply: This is a count for gauge 12, where the yarn is single ply to give greater lightness to the knit. This type of count is known for its lightness while maintaining a good softness.
  • Cashmere 2-ply: This is a good count for gauge 7, where two cashmere threads are twisted together. This type of yarn is known for its strength and durability, resulting in a very soft feel.
  • Cashmere 4-ply: Here four cashmere threads are twisted together. This is an excellent title for a fineness of 5 and 3. This yarn is much thicker and very warm, ideal for winter mountain sweaters or very important scarves.
  • Fine or super fine cashmere: Some manufacturers offer very high quality cashmere with a fineness below 15 microns, known as "superfine" cashmere. This category is very rare and although it is extremely soft and comfortable, it tends to have a very high price.

The choice of the title of a yarn depends on the final use of the product and the preference of the consumer. For example, a 2-ply cashmere may be more suitable for everyday items, while a 4-ply is perfect for high-fashion or winter-specific items.

Cashmere Fineness

The fineness of cashmere is a determining factor in its quality. The finer the fiber, the softer and lighter the final product. Cashmere fibers generally range from 14 to 19 microns:

  • Fibers from 14 to 15 microns: Considered to be of the highest quality. They are incredibly soft and light and are used in the most luxurious garments (Extremely rare).
  • 16 to 18 micron fibers: Still of good quality, these fibers are commonly used in most high-end cashmere products.
  • Fibers over 19 microns: These fibers tend to be sturdier and less soft, so they may not be considered "luxury cashmere".

Twisting: Importance and Technique

Twisting is a fundamental process in the production of cashmere yarn. It consists of twisting two or more strands of fiber together to form a single, stronger and more resistant yarn. This step not only improves the strength of the yarn, but also affects its softness and the final appearance of the fabric.

Twisting techniques can vary. A tighter twist produces a stronger yarn, while a looser twist offers more softness and volume. The choice of twisting technique depends on the type of final product you want. For example, for a sweater worn every day, a tighter twist might be preferable, while for a high fashion accessory, a looser twist will be ideal.

Specifically: The twisting process to form the yarn is very similar to braiding hair. 2-ply yarn is made up of two threads twisted in opposite directions "Z and S" and then twisted together to create strength. Using 2-ply yarn means you want to offer a quality product. A sweater made with a single strand has movement only in one direction called "Z" or "S", so unless it is designed exquisitely, it will lead to the deformation of the garment.

A useful example of a multi-thread pattern to understand specifically is the following:

twisting and fineness of the cashmere yarn

The number of needles used per inch

The lower the gauge number, the thicker the sweater is knit but slightly looser "with a loose knit". The higher the gauge number, the denser the sweater is knit and therefore with a tight knit.

various gauges for cashmere knitwear

Care and Maintenance of Cashmere

A crucial aspect of purchasing cashmere garments is their care. To ensure the longevity of cashmere products:

  • 1. Washing: It is advisable to wash cashmere garments by hand with cold water and a gentle detergent specifically for delicate materials.
  • 2. Drying: Never wring out cashmere; it is preferable to lay it out on a towel and let it air dry, away from direct sunlight.
  • 3. Storage: Store cashmere garments folded, not hung, to avoid deforming them. It is also a good idea to put them in cotton bags to protect them from dust and parasites.

For more information on the maintenance and care of cashmere

Conclusions

Cashmere remains one of the most popular materials in the fashion industry, thanks to its unique characteristics of softness, insulation and versatility. Understanding the various counts and finenesses of the yarn, as well as the importance of twisting, is essential for anyone who wants to invest in high-quality cashmere garments. With the right care and attention, cashmere items can last for years, maintaining their beauty and functionality.

In a world where sustainability is becoming increasingly important, it is also crucial that consumers choose ethical and responsible producers in the selection of raw materials and in the processing of cashmere. Only in this way we can guarantee the future of this precious material, continuing to enjoy its comfort and elegance.

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