News and Articles on Cashmere and Sustainable Fashion

We can suppose that Chinese imperators and nobles fitted Cashmere clothes, even if there isn’t any document attesting this. It seems that Marco Polo, in the XIII century, saw graffiti of domesticated goats inside some caves in Mongolia.

So, we can think that man raised and exploited these goats for milk, meat (a female can weigh 30-50 kg, while a male 40-80 kg) and to obtain clothes from their fleece in those countries since the old times.
Certainly, considering the particular isothermal qualities of cashmere, it was very useful to fit where winters are cold.

English began to import to Europe this wonderful texture only in the XIX century.
The first import of cashmere hair from China was made at the end of 1950 by “Filatura d’Angora”. In those years Italy didn’t still have diplomatic relationships with China.

Cashmere is one of the most prestigious and nobles existent textures.
Cashmere is an extracted hair from the manufacture of Hircus Goat mantle, original from Ladakh and Tibet Tablelands, in Himalaya, located at about 4.000 m of altitude.
Nowadays, this specific race, is raised in various states like Tibet, China, Mongolia, Pakistan, Iran and Afghanistan.

This goat produces a particularly thin, soft and warm texture that permits it to survive with temperatures of -40°. It is raised in an extensive way, because it needs poor pastures of weeds shrubbery and plants and can easily adapt to the different raising environments.
In the spring, there is the shearing and its hairs are washed and jarred (that means separate the thinner and softer hairs from the stiffer and bristly ones).

The best is the jarring, the purest will the final product be, without black hairs and jars.
We can calculate that a goat produces only of grams of usable cashmere texture after the jarring,of which another 10% is lost during the spinning, later.

So, for the production of half-thickness knitting, the annual production of 3 or more cashmere goats is needed.

Compared to the noblest wool, cashmere is more brilliant, shinier, softer and more isothermal.
Through the microscope, cashmere hair seems like a “little tube”, while the wool appears with serrated sections. During the washing, the wool textures tend to fit each other and so to felt. On the contrary, the cashmere hair, like the human hair, being like a little smooth tube, doesn’t felt.
Have you ever hear about a person who its hairs felt after a shampoo?

The standard to classify the beauty and the price of cashmere raw material is similar to the diamonds one. They are categorized for their color, pureness, thinness and length.
When cashmere is lighter, without jars, black hairs, thin and long, the price will be higher.
Our cashmere is at the top of this classification.

Pilling effect is when the chafe of the smaller and superficial textures forms some “little balls”. This is a consequence of their coming out from the thread because they are not well fixed from the twisting.

As usual, people think that pilling effect is a quality’s defect but instead, this is a normal characteristic of cashmere and of thin wool. The realization of pure cashmere knitting presents always a dilemma: it is necessary choose between the softness or to “close” the thread to avoid the texture’s coming out caused by the use.
When the thread is more twisted, and so more “closed”, it will be less soft and swollen, similar to a string. On the contrary, with a swollen soft and light yarn, obtained by few twisting, the knitting will be very delicate and it will ruin very soon.
We prefer to produce a medium/high twisting to guarantee the life and the stability of garments.
When You buy our knitting, they will be soft but surely, washing after washing, they will be softer and the light pilling will completely disappear after 2/3 washings.
The thinner textures tend more to the pilling effect; so, a “Shetland” knitting (normal wool) will have surely less problems than a merino extrafine or cashmere knitting.

HOW TO REDUCE THE pilling EFFECT
• Don’t worn the knitting more than 2/3 days running.
• It has to be washed as often as possible: cashmere loves water, because goats live in hard conditions, outdoors and under the rain. The textures when wet, they extend, while when dry, they come back to their origins. In this way, your cashmere knitting will be new, each washing.
• Don’t worn over the knitting jutting accessories, that can damage the textures. Pay attention to the daily habits: for example, don’t bring a pen or stiff things into the pockets to avoid the pilling effect. Our morphology and our habits influence a lot the life of our knitting.

In the textile industry, the yarn count defines the thinness of a yarn, from Latin “titulus”.
In Europe, the standard count of the 100% cashmere is 2/28.000, that is say that it is composed by 2 threads twisted together for a length of 28.000 meters for kg.

The higher the count is, the longer should be the yarn. This is important for manufacturing technical purposes , too. To realize a 1/16.000 or 1/9.000, for example, cashmere selections that cost less than the half of those used for a 2/28.000, can be used.

In China is normally used the 2/26.000, very similar to the European 2/28.000. However, experts know that such a minimum change can engrave more than the 30% on the price of raw material.

So, to produce a knitting of 300 g, are necessary 16.800 m (16,8 km) of thread. 

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You can make an appointment, from Monday to Friday from 10.00 to 17.00, we will be happy to let you touch our products. click here to CONTACT US

We have available in stock 100% pure regenerated cashmere, man and woman.

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One of the ways to reduce the impact of production is cashmere to be recycled.
The practice of cashmere recycling dates back hundreds of years ago.
After sweats were so worn that they could not be worn, they were harvested and shredded into individual fibers, then converted into blankets. Here's how recycled cashmere uses the same procedure.
Thanks to modern quality controls, cashmere is subjected to careful and meticulous sorting processes.
By selecting and mixing the colors of woolen fabrics and garments, we can completely eliminate the dyeing process, thus saving water and chemicals and without having to manage the resulting wastewater.

In addition, the use of recycled cashmere reduces intensive exploitation of grazing land for sheep.
Cashmere recycling also reduces the amount of waste and waste produced, which in turn results in a limited use of landfills and the reduction of toxic incinerators emissions. Cashmere products that can no longer be used because they are too worn may find a new life through tissue reversal and help reduce air, water and soil pollution.

Have you ever heard of re-engineered cashmere? This is a process capable of transforming the scraps of noble fibers into matter to be re-shaped, and thus diminish the impact on the environment that may have cashmere harvesting and production. Thinking of turning one of the noblest fibers into an ecofriendly version was a group of Tuscan companies in pole position with regard to the Italian textile industry. New Brothers Boretti, Filpucci, Green Line A, Stelloni Collection by Mapel and Filatura C4 have created an exclusive platform that marks new ways for Italian cashmere, creating a line of environment-friendly yarns, certified with the best global ecological standards to guarantee The quality of materials and their integrity during the recycling process.

The regenerated cashmere has also attracted high fashion brands: Gucci, Filippa K, Eileen Fisher and Stella McCartney are just some of the names that have begun to replace virgin cashmere with the re-engineered. The task of the platform is to manage operations that bring back valuable yarn scraps, hand-made and preconsumer research.

"This is an absolutely new way of making textile that blends the circular economy with ancient Tuscan traditions. A responsible innovation that resulted in products of excellence totally ecological and made in Italy, "said Daniela Boretti, the founder of the project, seeking to reconcile the craft tradition with the needs and attentions that the environment demands.

It is not to be ruled out that there will still be many brands that decide to choose "green" cashmere for their own shelf.

It is called King. Towards the regenerated yarn that Stella McCartney will use for the entire production of knitwear replacing pure cashmere. A fabric made in Italy and obtained from industrial cashmere excess, with which the English designer aims to reduce the environmental impact of 92%. To make a pure cashmere sweater, four goats are served, while only one sheep can get five wool sweaters. The demand for the market for pure cashmere products has increased dramatically in recent years, leading to an intensification of goat's farms and consequently to a greater impact on the environment that hosts them: Mongolia pastures. 90% of Mongolian prairies are at risk of desertification, with Re.Verso Stella McCartney and its sustainable eco-brand aim to attest the environmental impact to 2% by 2016

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